Here are a few tips for making weight friendly garments.
1. Adding EASE! Ease is defined as those extra inches in a finished garment that one can pull away from the body. I am finding that I really like having lots of ease in my lower hips and legs. When clothing is tight, it's uncomfortable. In Fit for real people , Pati Palmer suggests having a certain amount of ease for different garments. Here are her guidelines. You can easily add ease with a french ruler by drawing in a line outside the cutting line. Check out this book for more details. It's wonderful!
|As I look at this chart I see that most of my skirts have about 1/2 inch of ease in the waistline. I will be adding a bit to that for comfort.|
2. Considering the design/lines of a garment before sewing will tell you a lot about how your shape will fit into that design. This can be helpful in decisions of making a fitted skirt or an A line, or a boxy jacket verses a fitted one? Remember if you gain weight a boxy jacket may still fit when a fitted one get snug. A wide variety of styles in your closet can be a saving grace when the scale is moving upward.
3. Fabric selection is so important. Fabrics with a small amount of stretch go a long way for shoulders, bust-line and hips. As I use some of my non-stretch vintage fabrics, I will be adding more ease to the pattern at the lower hip-line for comfort. This will ensure freedom in movement.
4. I have given this tip before, it's worth repeating. Adding one inch seams instead of the standard 5/8 to the outer seams of a garment can be very helpful. If you need them the extra fabric is already there and can be let out pretty easily.
5. Resist over-fitting a garment. When fitting your garments. Baste the seams together. Now sit in your car. Can you reach everything easily? I say this because if I can sit in my car and be comfortable, then I know I have enough ease. Or stand in your kitchen and make a simple meal, can you reach the top shelf without splitting a seam? Test drive your garments before truly sewing up the final seams. Anyone can stand in front of a mirror and hold their breath in for a fitting, but can you pick up the baby and carry her around the house while wearing the garment, that's the question.
6. Consider adding a little elastic in the back of pants or skirts for those monthly times where the scale is going upward.
Sewing a wardrobe has become a way of life for many people, and let's face it weight loss or gain can happen a long the way. Considering weight changes is good insurance of great fitting clothing for the future.
Have a wonderful vintage day!