Choosing a pattern size can often leave one wondering. There are many options and theories about picking out a workable size. I am not an expert, this is what has worked for me. After working with all kinds of dress and blouse patterns, my hands down, best experiences with fit, has been with a pattern based off of my high breast measurement. This is not 100%, all the time accurate, but I am pretty pleased with the results. I can buy a 32 or 34 pattern. The one thing I keep in mind when waffling between these two pattern sizes is the amount of ease a pattern has built into it.
Garment ease is defined as those extra inches of fabric that can be pulled away from your body when wearing a garment. Everyone has their comfort level for the amount of ease they desire. All garments have varying degrees of ease to them. This is something to keep in mind when shopping for a pattern.
Garment ease is defined as those extra inches of fabric that can be pulled away from your body when wearing a garment. Everyone has their comfort level for the amount of ease they desire. All garments have varying degrees of ease to them. This is something to keep in mind when shopping for a pattern.
You may be wondering why the high bust measurement when buying a pattern? Well, according to Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer, this is the good way to buy a pattern if you have a bust size of a C cup or higher. Have you ever made a pattern that fits your bust, but the shoulders were too large? This maybe a indication that you need to buy a smaller size pattern. Shoulders can be very tricky to adjust, it's generally not recommended. So to start, take a measuring tape and go around your whole body as shown in the drawing and marked with a number 1. If you are high busted, try to measure with as little breast tissue as possible, this will ensure a more accurate measurement. Area 1 marks the HIGH BUST, area 2 marks The BUST. After measuring both places subtract the numbers, now look at the Cup Size Chart, this one only goes up to D cup. You should know your cup size based off what you just measured.
C cup or higher- You would buy a pattern based on your high bust measurement, that number is to be substituted for the bust measurement on the pattern envelope. So if your high bust measurement is 34 inches then you would buy a size 34 pattern.
Note: If you are full busted then you may need to do a FBA to your pattern, check out some tutorial here from Gertie!
What if you are an A or B cup? Many women are wearing the wrong size bra, so I would suggest measuring both areas if you haven't in a while. You may be surprised at the results! My friend was wearing an A cup and got measured, she was a C cup! Remember 2 inches or less between the high bust and bust means you would be an A or B cup.
A or B cup- You would buy a pattern based off of your true bust measurement and not the high bust.
Finally, as an example, my high bust is 32 3/4, my bust is 35 1/2. That's a 2 3/4 inch difference. So according to the chart, that makes me a C cup. Here are two patterns that I made up in a muslin. They are close to my size and close in garment ease. The first is based off my high bust, it's a 33 pattern. The second is based off my true bust, it's a 36 pattern. Can you see the difference? Both are workable, but the one based off my high bust gets me a little closer to a garment that fits.
This is only one way to buy a pattern for it's size. Adjustments could be needed for a great result. How do you choose your patterns? What method have you found that works for you? I hope this has been helpful. Have a great vintage day!
Gina
| Cup Size Chart | |
| Difference | Cup Size |
| Up to 1" (2.5cm) | A |
| Up to 2" (5cm) | B |
| Up to 3" (7.5cm) | C |
| Up to 4" (10cm) | D |
C cup or higher- You would buy a pattern based on your high bust measurement, that number is to be substituted for the bust measurement on the pattern envelope. So if your high bust measurement is 34 inches then you would buy a size 34 pattern.
Note: If you are full busted then you may need to do a FBA to your pattern, check out some tutorial here from Gertie!
What if you are an A or B cup? Many women are wearing the wrong size bra, so I would suggest measuring both areas if you haven't in a while. You may be surprised at the results! My friend was wearing an A cup and got measured, she was a C cup! Remember 2 inches or less between the high bust and bust means you would be an A or B cup.
A or B cup- You would buy a pattern based off of your true bust measurement and not the high bust.
Finally, as an example, my high bust is 32 3/4, my bust is 35 1/2. That's a 2 3/4 inch difference. So according to the chart, that makes me a C cup. Here are two patterns that I made up in a muslin. They are close to my size and close in garment ease. The first is based off my high bust, it's a 33 pattern. The second is based off my true bust, it's a 36 pattern. Can you see the difference? Both are workable, but the one based off my high bust gets me a little closer to a garment that fits.
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| Notice where the shoulder and sleeve meets, this is a good fit. Minor adjustments are needed at the waist, but over all based on my high bust, it works! FYI- this pattern is a half size so it's a bit short-waisted for me. |
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| The 36 inch pattern swims on me. The shoulders are way too large for me. But according to my bust measurement this is the size I should buy. |
This is only one way to buy a pattern for it's size. Adjustments could be needed for a great result. How do you choose your patterns? What method have you found that works for you? I hope this has been helpful. Have a great vintage day!
Gina
Would you say this holds true for vintage patterns or is this just directed at modern patterns with all that extra ease???
ReplyDeleteThe only pattern adjustments I've been good at doing are the standard lengthen the waist. That top I made in the print with the silk lining, it has a scoop neck. The front is too large for me as even if I measurer 36 I'm not full busted it's the measurement around my back that is getting the size there. I need that in the back but not in the front. What do you suggest for that?
ReplyDeleteI would say yes, it holds true for patterns both modern and vintage. Both bodices pictured are from vintage patterns! The high bust measurement has been the best for me so far. Good luck, I am enjoying your blog Living Vintage, love the camper!
ReplyDeleteNan, I think what you are saying is you need more room in the back area, There is an adjustment for Broad back, round back, high round back. Without knowing your shape, I would google these adjustments. You may find the book very helpful to you. It shows all these adjustments as well. You might try a pattern based off your high bust measurement and do an adjustment to your back bodice. Maybe that might help? Just a thought,
ReplyDeletepattern sizing is definitely something i struggle with - i tend to be an overfitter & having the slightest "off" in my fit drives me craaaazy. there is a 3" difference between my high bust & full bust measurements, so i've found what works best for me is to go by the high bust measurement & add 1" or so via FBA. since i tend to wear very close-fitting garments, i have learned that i absolutely cannot skip a FBA.
ReplyDeleteas far as choosing the pattern size for my waist/hips, i go by based on the finished measurements of the garment (on modern patterns it is printed on the tissue; vintage patterns usually require measuring the pattern pieces), rather than the "suggested size." i've found that the amount of ease added into patterns - both vintage & modern - tend to make the finished garment too big.
This is really useful, thanks Gina, I tend to go for size 36 patterns as that's what my full bust size is, but they're often too big across the back. I've got a vintage size 34 pattern which I thought I'd have to do a FBA on, but now I'm not so sure as that's what my high bust is. Will have to sew it up to find out! x
ReplyDeleteVery good information.
ReplyDeletethanks for sharing the knowledge... i have been drafting my own (simple) patterns for fear of using actual ones but i think i am almost ready to try a real pattern
ReplyDeleteAwesome explanation! Simple and clear. Being as small as I am, it's pretty much the same measurement no matter what for me, but I'm glad to read the explanation for when I try to work with others' bodies. Thanks!
ReplyDeletethanks vintage girl I will play with some measurements and hopefully squeeze in some sewing time soon. Oh and thanks I am glad you are enjoying my I am a total baby to the blogging world and had never even read many blogs until about December but an truly enjoying being part of this community so again thank you.
ReplyDeleteOoooh, fab timing! Linked to you. Hope that's OK!
ReplyDeletePx
Of course, Miss P, we are friends, link away!
ReplyDeleteVery interesting read! However, I've pretty much given up on using ready made patterns. Instead I have made a standard pattern that fits my body perfectly, which I then modify or add/remove from whenever I make something new. Basically, if I get a new pattern I'll put it on top of my "base" to make any adjustments needed. It's worked well this far... :)
ReplyDeleteWhat a great article! I was having the hardest time with fit because I am a 34 dd even though I don't look like it. My bust is 37 and I was buying a 36 patternwhich was huge. You also can buy one of the fitting shells from each . Sometimes store patterns are so hard to get right it's easier to make big seam allownces and just drape something directly on the form if you have a form. I usually have to do a muslin first now. Old patterns don't list the ease on the envelope. BTW I LOVE the black gingham blouse!
ReplyDeleteVery informative blog and the photos are great - they really demonstrate your point. I haven't sewn clothes for myself in years but one problem I have always had with store bought blouses is that they ride up in the front almost choking me in the neck. I'm always having to pull them down in front. I haven't a clue what causes that? I have some clothes I saved that I made years ago I should blog about them.
ReplyDeleteSandy, your blouse problem could be due to the hump that womens get as they age. Even if you can't really see the hump just a slight curve causes that choking at the neck. I have the same problem. An adjustment to the back will help. Thanks for stopping by.
ReplyDeleteYou don't have any idea how excited I am to read this. In fact just this morning I wrote a long rant on my blog about my frustration at making clothes for myself because they all end up too big. I'm going to try using the new measurements. It also confirms my suspicion that the amount of ease also played a part in it all. Thank you for sharing because now I have a small glimmer of hope that someday I might actually be able to make myself something that will fit.
ReplyDeleteThank you so much. This answers my questions about why my recent tops don't fit in the shoulders.
ReplyDeleteTHANK YOU!!!! for your suggestion. I have a large bust and a short waist. The shoulders are always wrong wrong wrong on me. I'll try this next time I get a pattern. Why did I never think of this? (Shame on me since I do sew for a living).
ReplyDeleteMargaret- I hope it works out for you, maybe a FBA would help too. I thought of this because I have struggled with size and knew others had issues too, This is just one way to select a pattern, it has been consistent to work for me.
ReplyDeleteAkc40- good luck hope it works out for you.
the curryseven- you will find a good fit, keep trying and good luck!
Thank you so much for sharing you knowledge and for the clear explanation. This was so helpful. I have been so totally confused about how to choose the right size in patterns for so long and could never get an answer from anyone; so therefore many of my garments turn out too large. As a matter of fact, one of the shirts I made was so large, I only wear it when I am pregnant. That was not its intended use. But I have been pregnant several times since I've made it, so it's getting some wear. I am so excited to be able to make clothing that will actually fit. I am forever in your debt.
ReplyDeletethanks for sharing! i am a B cup size and i am barely constructing my first dress. i went to a sewing class and th eteacher recommenended we all pick a pattern based on our largest measurement which for me was my bigger hip measurement. we shall see how this goes. i don't think it will affect my dress but i am worried about my shorts not fitting the way i would like
ReplyDelete